Its been so long since I've posted in here, I almost forgot I had this blog site. I haven't been very active since my last post, but I feel its time to document a new project that I just started today. This is a major project for me. What I'm doing is building up a transverter for 2304 MHz, partially from scratch, partly from an old MMDS receive converter. I'm building this unit around the California Amplifier model 31732 MMDS downconverter. These units were originally used to receive over the air cable television. I have successfully retuned one for Amsat Oscar 51 (AO51) ham satellite S band downlink on 2401.200 MHz. The converter is extremely sensitive and they appear to be stable enough to use as a basis for this project. This is the first time I've attempted to build my own microwave rig from either converting surplus or scratchbuilt.
The design goal for this transverter is to build a portable 13 cm station. Power output of a couple of watts, and later perhaps as much as 75 watts using converted surplus. This band is easy to do this with, being there is a nice variety of surplus hardware that can be used on these frequencies. The project will use the MMDS converter for the entire receive chain, including the LO. A probe (first modification) is installed just above the LO filter striplines, and exits the chassis to an SMA connector to be used to drive the TX mixer.
The TX mixer, bandpass filter and low level transmit amplifier will be homebrew, external to the MMDS whitebox. A surplus double balanced diode ring mixer will be used as the transmit mixer. From the RF port, a homebrew 3 resonator filter will pass only the LO + IF output of the mixer, then will be amplified to approximately +10 dBm, which will drive a commercial PA, which, depending on what I use, will run anywhere from 2 to 75 watts, depending on the model I'm able to acquire.
The first modification I have done was to install the TX LO probe to tap off some 2160 MHz energy to drive the TX mixer. This involved milling down a lip on the case of the converter and installing an SMA connector with a 30 mm probe inside the whitebox.
Today, I received the necessary crystal to change the frequency of the LO synthesizer to output the 2160 MHz. The crystal frequency is calculated by taking the operating frequency (2304) minus the IF frequency (144), then dividing the result (2160) by 256 (8.4375). This is the frequency of the crystal I ordered. I ordered this crystal from International Crystal, and it came in today. I installed the crystal, and checked the frequency, and it netted on frequency with very little effort. The output from the probe seems to be enough to drive the TX mixer.
The next step will be in tuning the receiver printed circuit bandpass filter, lowering its frequency from 2500 MHz down to 2300 MHz. My next post will describe the procedure, and will keep you informed as to my progress. So until then, I'll have to wait until I get some RG59 and some connectors so I can hook up the IF rig to the unit and start adjusting the hairpins on the pc board.
Thursday, October 14, 2010
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Cell Phone Interference on the Softrock Series SDR
Ever since I built my first Softrock, I was plagued by the usual buzz sound caused by a cell phone in close proximity to the radio. It was so bad with the rig, that the phone could be anywhere within about 15 feet (or more) and the interference was still quite noticeable. I had some success reducing it slightly by putting ferrites on the cables going to the radio, but could never reduce it to the point where it would not be annoying - until today.
The following modification should work on any of the Softrock sets, although I tested it on a TX/RX 6.3.
On an old scrap circuit board in my junk box, I found some molded RF chokes. The particular value I found were 4.7 microhenries. I installed one in series with the B+ line at the power jack in my shielded metal chassis thats holds the radio. This reduced the interference substantially. I then bonded the B-, shield of the serial connector and the grounds of the 2 audio connectors as well as the ground of the USB cable in my 6.3, and that reduced the interference to the point where I no longer hear the interference with the phone in my pocket, about 3 feet away from the unit.
I tried the inductor on the B- side of the power supply also, but when I did so, the interference came back to about the same level as it was before I began.
As an added bonus, by making this modification, I was able to also reduce the center "hump" substantially as well. My analyzer screen in PowerSDR is now almost totally flat across the passband of the sound card.
If you have this type of interference on your V9 or 6.3, I strongly recommend doing this mod. I assume the inductor value isn't critical, so long as the value is relatively small. It seems that there is not enough capacitance between windings on the inductor I used to pass the 800 MHz garbage.
The following modification should work on any of the Softrock sets, although I tested it on a TX/RX 6.3.
On an old scrap circuit board in my junk box, I found some molded RF chokes. The particular value I found were 4.7 microhenries. I installed one in series with the B+ line at the power jack in my shielded metal chassis thats holds the radio. This reduced the interference substantially. I then bonded the B-, shield of the serial connector and the grounds of the 2 audio connectors as well as the ground of the USB cable in my 6.3, and that reduced the interference to the point where I no longer hear the interference with the phone in my pocket, about 3 feet away from the unit.
I tried the inductor on the B- side of the power supply also, but when I did so, the interference came back to about the same level as it was before I began.
As an added bonus, by making this modification, I was able to also reduce the center "hump" substantially as well. My analyzer screen in PowerSDR is now almost totally flat across the passband of the sound card.
If you have this type of interference on your V9 or 6.3, I strongly recommend doing this mod. I assume the inductor value isn't critical, so long as the value is relatively small. It seems that there is not enough capacitance between windings on the inductor I used to pass the 800 MHz garbage.
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Progress Made on 1296 Rig
Well, we figured out the problem with the 1296 rig, but I'm unsure how to fix the problem. Apparently there has been no oscillation problem all along, the local oscillator chain is producing harmonics that are causing some strange mixing products. We had a strong output on around 1250 mhz that was always at the output anytime the transverter was keyed. This signal goes away when the oscillator is detuned so that it stops oscillating, but is always there anytime the oscillator is going. The signal levels are equal to the desired 1296 signal when driven by the IF rig. So when the rig is running, I had an output on 1296 and a carrier at 1250 (or thereabouts). We traced the problem to a dirty LO chain.
We were able to clean it up substantially by inserting a 3 pole BPF between the 10 mW transverter output and the next amplifier stage. The correct way to fix this in my opinion would be to incorporate another of these filters in the output of the LO chain. We didnt get that far with it today though.
When we hooked up the 2W PA, there was no output from the amp, and we didnt have time to troubleshoot it. It was working when we began testing, so I am guessing it is something simple, such as a short in the RF path somewhere. Since the TX is now clean, I can now troubleshoot the amp and try to maximise the output power.
Another possible problem with the dirty LO is that of receive performance. With a dirty LO, the receiver will be receiving on 2 different frequencies, cutting the gain down by 3dB (or more) on the desired 1296 MHz, and also increasing the noise by 3 dB (or more), I never really noticed a receive problem with the exception of the RF stage oscillating, which was a confirmed problem. So, with that discovery, work can begin cleaning up the LO, and eventually I should get a 1296 rig on the air , hopefully before summer.
We were able to clean it up substantially by inserting a 3 pole BPF between the 10 mW transverter output and the next amplifier stage. The correct way to fix this in my opinion would be to incorporate another of these filters in the output of the LO chain. We didnt get that far with it today though.
When we hooked up the 2W PA, there was no output from the amp, and we didnt have time to troubleshoot it. It was working when we began testing, so I am guessing it is something simple, such as a short in the RF path somewhere. Since the TX is now clean, I can now troubleshoot the amp and try to maximise the output power.
Another possible problem with the dirty LO is that of receive performance. With a dirty LO, the receiver will be receiving on 2 different frequencies, cutting the gain down by 3dB (or more) on the desired 1296 MHz, and also increasing the noise by 3 dB (or more), I never really noticed a receive problem with the exception of the RF stage oscillating, which was a confirmed problem. So, with that discovery, work can begin cleaning up the LO, and eventually I should get a 1296 rig on the air , hopefully before summer.
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
1296 Transverter Progress
For quite awhile, I have been battling a low power problem with an older circa 1995 Down East Microwave 1296-144 transverter. At first I thought the PA was blown, I removed it and installed an outboard PA with no success. Eventually I replaced the entire transmit chain with still no improvement.
Most recently, I replaced the mixer IC. The original mixer chip is no longer made, however a newer model which spec's somewhat better than the original was installed.
I never reinstalled the PA module. I am going to do some testing very soon with the +10dBm output from the driver. If everything checks out, I'll continue to use the outboard 2W module, then feed that into the 30W PA. Keeping the rig this way, in my opinion would be more versatile as far as making improvements and upgrades on the circuit. Because everything is interconnected using UT-141 copper hardline, things such as bandpass filters and amplifier replacements can be more easily tried.
I am hoping to put the rig on a spectrum analyser and power meter to determine if the transverter is working properly. If it is, I plan on operating some 1296 up on the Lake, as well as possibly some mountaintop operations this summer. Stay tuned to my blog, I'll report here on the performance once I am able to make the proper tests.
Most recently, I replaced the mixer IC. The original mixer chip is no longer made, however a newer model which spec's somewhat better than the original was installed.
I never reinstalled the PA module. I am going to do some testing very soon with the +10dBm output from the driver. If everything checks out, I'll continue to use the outboard 2W module, then feed that into the 30W PA. Keeping the rig this way, in my opinion would be more versatile as far as making improvements and upgrades on the circuit. Because everything is interconnected using UT-141 copper hardline, things such as bandpass filters and amplifier replacements can be more easily tried.
I am hoping to put the rig on a spectrum analyser and power meter to determine if the transverter is working properly. If it is, I plan on operating some 1296 up on the Lake, as well as possibly some mountaintop operations this summer. Stay tuned to my blog, I'll report here on the performance once I am able to make the proper tests.
Softrock 6.3 RXTX with USB Control
I ordered and built the USB I2C controller board for my Softrock 6.3 RXTX. Adding this option opens up a whole new world for your Softrock. Not only does it allow you to tune the entire bands, but also allows you to have general coverage receive capability with the rig.
It also allows external programs to take control of the radio. This is REALLY cool, as you can run Powersdr in the background and use software such as fldigi and WSPR to actually control the frequency. Fldigi logging works great too, as it can read the frequency of the radio and it puts that into the log automatically.
Another added feature is you no longer need the serial cable to key the transmitter. This is all done now via the USB port. Of course, you still need to set up virtual com ports so the additional software can communicate PTT to Powersdr.
I have been using PowerSDR v.1.19.3.15 with this new setup. This version has been designed for use with CURRENT firmware in your softrock, and it works quite well. I find the audio is less choppy with this version as well, and it's a lot prettier on the screen with its customizable skins.
Upgrading your Softrock with this little $11 board is more than worth adding the option.
On a sidenote, the other night I thought I would try some digital communications running barefoot 1 watt from the radio, and worked a fellow in Arkansas using Olivia 500/16 on 40 meters. I was running 1 watt, he was running 40 watts and was using a Flex-5000. We maintained contact for 1 1/2 hours, talking about SDR in general. Was a real fun QSO. I'm looking forward to working my first Softrock to Softrock rig, as I think that would be quite interesting.
It also allows external programs to take control of the radio. This is REALLY cool, as you can run Powersdr in the background and use software such as fldigi and WSPR to actually control the frequency. Fldigi logging works great too, as it can read the frequency of the radio and it puts that into the log automatically.
Another added feature is you no longer need the serial cable to key the transmitter. This is all done now via the USB port. Of course, you still need to set up virtual com ports so the additional software can communicate PTT to Powersdr.
I have been using PowerSDR v.1.19.3.15 with this new setup. This version has been designed for use with CURRENT firmware in your softrock, and it works quite well. I find the audio is less choppy with this version as well, and it's a lot prettier on the screen with its customizable skins.
Upgrading your Softrock with this little $11 board is more than worth adding the option.
On a sidenote, the other night I thought I would try some digital communications running barefoot 1 watt from the radio, and worked a fellow in Arkansas using Olivia 500/16 on 40 meters. I was running 1 watt, he was running 40 watts and was using a Flex-5000. We maintained contact for 1 1/2 hours, talking about SDR in general. Was a real fun QSO. I'm looking forward to working my first Softrock to Softrock rig, as I think that would be quite interesting.
Saturday, February 13, 2010
Softrock and the Digital Modes
Today I was experimenting with setting up PowerSDR-SR40 for use with fldigi and other digital software, and I got everything talking to each other. When everything is working together, it makes operating digital so easy. So far, I got PSDR working with fldigi and Ham Radio Deluxe. I'm planning on getting it working with MMSSTV and EasyPal Digital SSTV program. I dont think there will be any problems, as they should set up the same as the ones I already got working.
There are 2 programs you will need in order to make everything play nice. First is "Virtual Audio Cable". it can be downloaded from here: http://software.muzychenko.net/eng/vac.html
When you get it, you will need to create 2 virtual sound devices. There are good instructions at the above website on doing this. One will be needed for receive, the other for transmit.
The other program you will need, and you will only need it for software that also controls the radio, such as fldigi and Ham Radio Deluxe, and that is "com0com", This creates virtual com ports to link the control aspects together. It can be gotten here: http://com0com.sourceforge.net/
You will need to create 1 pair of com ports for most applications. There are excellent pdf directions on how to do this at the above website.
Then go into Powersdr and set up the "CAT" section. Although some software will work using the identifier set for "SDR-1000", I've had better luck setting up emulating a TS-2000. Under CAT control, set the com port as the lower com port number that you created in the virtual com ports, I used COM5. Fldigi will use COM6 under its CAT settings. I used RIGCAT in Windows to control the SDR, and it plays nice. I have had some problems getting the external programs to control PTT, so I just use VOX for that. I used to use VOX in my Yaesu too when I ran digi modes.
To get audio to the programs, you need to set up virtual audio cable. I used Virtual Audio Cable #1 for audio out from PSDR and VAC #2 for the TX input audio. These settings will be found in the VAC tab in the audio settings in PSDR. The audio settings in fldigi are just the opposite - VAC2 is the output device, and VAC 1 is the input.
Once everything is talking, fldigi will read the frequency of the radio and you can then use the logger in fldigi, and it works like any other radio would with CAT control.
Ham Radio Deluxe sets up in a similar fashion.
To listen to your receive audio, should you choose to do so, VAC has a little utility called an Audio Repeater. You can set that up to input the proper VAC device as the input, and your soundcard that you use for your speaker audio as the output of the repeater.
There you have it, a basic overview as to how to set up different software so they will talk to eachother. Once they talk, operation is a breeze. I worked a little bit of the RTTY contest, and worked about 25 contacts in less than an hour with only 15 watts of TX power.
Good luck, and I hope this helps you get things working with your Software Defined Radio.
There are 2 programs you will need in order to make everything play nice. First is "Virtual Audio Cable". it can be downloaded from here: http://software.muzychenko.net/eng/vac.html
When you get it, you will need to create 2 virtual sound devices. There are good instructions at the above website on doing this. One will be needed for receive, the other for transmit.
The other program you will need, and you will only need it for software that also controls the radio, such as fldigi and Ham Radio Deluxe, and that is "com0com", This creates virtual com ports to link the control aspects together. It can be gotten here: http://com0com.sourceforge.net/
You will need to create 1 pair of com ports for most applications. There are excellent pdf directions on how to do this at the above website.
Then go into Powersdr and set up the "CAT" section. Although some software will work using the identifier set for "SDR-1000", I've had better luck setting up emulating a TS-2000. Under CAT control, set the com port as the lower com port number that you created in the virtual com ports, I used COM5. Fldigi will use COM6 under its CAT settings. I used RIGCAT in Windows to control the SDR, and it plays nice. I have had some problems getting the external programs to control PTT, so I just use VOX for that. I used to use VOX in my Yaesu too when I ran digi modes.
To get audio to the programs, you need to set up virtual audio cable. I used Virtual Audio Cable #1 for audio out from PSDR and VAC #2 for the TX input audio. These settings will be found in the VAC tab in the audio settings in PSDR. The audio settings in fldigi are just the opposite - VAC2 is the output device, and VAC 1 is the input.
Once everything is talking, fldigi will read the frequency of the radio and you can then use the logger in fldigi, and it works like any other radio would with CAT control.
Ham Radio Deluxe sets up in a similar fashion.
To listen to your receive audio, should you choose to do so, VAC has a little utility called an Audio Repeater. You can set that up to input the proper VAC device as the input, and your soundcard that you use for your speaker audio as the output of the repeater.
There you have it, a basic overview as to how to set up different software so they will talk to eachother. Once they talk, operation is a breeze. I worked a little bit of the RTTY contest, and worked about 25 contacts in less than an hour with only 15 watts of TX power.
Good luck, and I hope this helps you get things working with your Software Defined Radio.
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
SoftRock v6.3 RXTX+Xtall
About 2 weeks ago, I finished building a SoftRock v6.3 RXTX+Xtall SDR transceiver. I ordered the transceiver and 3 power amp, low pass TX filters, so I can cover 80 meters thru 10 meters.
The 6.3 TXRX is a 1 watt PEP transceiver capable of running whatever frequency bands that you supply PA's for. The standard kit allows for 16 presettable (with a 4 section DIP switch) frequencies. Each frequency is tunable over a span of 96 KHz with the software, with the preset dip switch setting being the center of that tuning range. All modes are possible, including SSB, AM, NB FM, and all of the digital modes, including Slow Scan Television using outboard software.
Most of my operation so far has been on WSPR on the 40 meter band, however I have operated SSB on 20 and 40 meters, and have worked a couple of countries using an outboard HFPack amplifier at about 15 watts. The performance is nothing short of remarkable, and have gotten exceptional audio reports while using a VERY cheap computer microphone.
Operating an SDR transceiver requires the use of 2 different sound cards. I use one card that works as the digital signal processor for the radio and the other to drive the speaker on receive and mic for transmit. For the radio card, you want the best sound card you can get, with the lowest noise and highest sample rate. 92 khz sample rate cards are available with noise floors in excess of -100 dB, and they are common and inexpensive. I bought a Soundblaster Audigy card for this purpose, but with many soundblaster internal cards, there is some phase shifting in the card, and I couldnt get a good balance without setting the phase and amplitude all over the place. I've used an older USB card such as the Soundblaster Live external card and that works pretty well. The external cards apparently do not suffer from the phase shifting that the internal cards do.
With the bare transceiver with the fixed frequency settings, the only software that is useable with it is a special version of PowerSDR, called;PowerSDR-SR40 and is available at http://powersdr-sr40.sourceforge.net/. All other versions do not allow you to transmit if the fixed frequency is enabled. There is, however an add on module that allows USB control of the Si570 oscillator that allows continuous tuning, which I ordered but have not received yet.
I will write more stories on this radio, and will detail a little more precisely on setting up this radio for use. It is a fun little rig, and for roughly a $100 investment, you will have yourself a very capable little radio.
The 6.3 TXRX is a 1 watt PEP transceiver capable of running whatever frequency bands that you supply PA's for. The standard kit allows for 16 presettable (with a 4 section DIP switch) frequencies. Each frequency is tunable over a span of 96 KHz with the software, with the preset dip switch setting being the center of that tuning range. All modes are possible, including SSB, AM, NB FM, and all of the digital modes, including Slow Scan Television using outboard software.
Most of my operation so far has been on WSPR on the 40 meter band, however I have operated SSB on 20 and 40 meters, and have worked a couple of countries using an outboard HFPack amplifier at about 15 watts. The performance is nothing short of remarkable, and have gotten exceptional audio reports while using a VERY cheap computer microphone.
Operating an SDR transceiver requires the use of 2 different sound cards. I use one card that works as the digital signal processor for the radio and the other to drive the speaker on receive and mic for transmit. For the radio card, you want the best sound card you can get, with the lowest noise and highest sample rate. 92 khz sample rate cards are available with noise floors in excess of -100 dB, and they are common and inexpensive. I bought a Soundblaster Audigy card for this purpose, but with many soundblaster internal cards, there is some phase shifting in the card, and I couldnt get a good balance without setting the phase and amplitude all over the place. I've used an older USB card such as the Soundblaster Live external card and that works pretty well. The external cards apparently do not suffer from the phase shifting that the internal cards do.
With the bare transceiver with the fixed frequency settings, the only software that is useable with it is a special version of PowerSDR, called;PowerSDR-SR40 and is available at http://powersdr-sr40.sourceforge.net/. All other versions do not allow you to transmit if the fixed frequency is enabled. There is, however an add on module that allows USB control of the Si570 oscillator that allows continuous tuning, which I ordered but have not received yet.
I will write more stories on this radio, and will detail a little more precisely on setting up this radio for use. It is a fun little rig, and for roughly a $100 investment, you will have yourself a very capable little radio.
Thursday, November 12, 2009
New 2 Meter Radio
With all the driving I do with my job, I decided to purchase a new ham radio for my van. I drove up to Amateur Electronic Supply in Cleveland and picked up the new Yaesu FT-1900R. The one I wanted was discontinued, but this is looking more and more like it is a better radio.
One thing that has concerned me is that the new mobile 2 meter rigs run 50+ watts. This one is 55 watts, and the package is so tiny, I was afraid that there wouldnt be enough heat sink to dissipate the kind of heat that a 50 watt final would produce. Turns out the entire bottom of the radio is finned heat sink, and it runs really cool with no temperature rise. Could they be running a class E PA in their rigs now? It would make sense.
Now for the operation of the rig... For a new radio, it is relatively convenient. You do need to reference the user manual, however, as programming the radio involves a few keystrokes, especially when you need to use CTCSS to access a repeater. You can also name the channels so you dont have to remember the frequencies when you tune thru the memories.
Operating the radio is a breeze once its set up. Power level is changed between 4 steps using a front panel button, tuning can be direct entry via the DTMF microphone (standard equipment), or by turning the tuning knob. The receiver has a hot .2 microvolt sensitivity, and the transmit audio is nice and clean. I've made a few QSO's on the radio from the mobile, and I am very pleased with it.
I also started a yahoo group on this radio, and if you have one, you're welcome to join it. The url is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ft-1900r/
One thing that has concerned me is that the new mobile 2 meter rigs run 50+ watts. This one is 55 watts, and the package is so tiny, I was afraid that there wouldnt be enough heat sink to dissipate the kind of heat that a 50 watt final would produce. Turns out the entire bottom of the radio is finned heat sink, and it runs really cool with no temperature rise. Could they be running a class E PA in their rigs now? It would make sense.
Now for the operation of the rig... For a new radio, it is relatively convenient. You do need to reference the user manual, however, as programming the radio involves a few keystrokes, especially when you need to use CTCSS to access a repeater. You can also name the channels so you dont have to remember the frequencies when you tune thru the memories.
Operating the radio is a breeze once its set up. Power level is changed between 4 steps using a front panel button, tuning can be direct entry via the DTMF microphone (standard equipment), or by turning the tuning knob. The receiver has a hot .2 microvolt sensitivity, and the transmit audio is nice and clean. I've made a few QSO's on the radio from the mobile, and I am very pleased with it.
I also started a yahoo group on this radio, and if you have one, you're welcome to join it. The url is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ft-1900r/
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
E-H Antenna
Because of my limited space for antennas, I decided to do a little experimenting with an E-H Antenna. An E-H Antenna is a tiny HF and MW antenna. Originally designed for AM broadcast stations, these antennas supposedly operate with extremely high efficiency, but come in a very small package.
More information at http://www.eh-antenna.com/
I built one for the 30 meter band. The antenna is about 2 feet long, and have the antenna resonant close to the 30 meter band. According to my SWR meter, it currently runs about a 2:1 SWR on 10.139 MHz. I could get the swr down even lower by adjusting the matching coils. I did a rough tuning on mine, and got it close enough for now.
I've read mixed reports by hams who have built these antennas for themselves. Many say they dont work. Here is what I've found so far:
On receive, it seems to pick up a fair amount of noise, but that could be due to antenna placement. I dont have the antenna up very high, only about 10 feet.
On transmit, it appears to do fairly well, even at this height. Signal reports are about even using WSPR. I chose WSPR as an antenna testing mode because every station "advertises" their transmit power, so I can compare transmit vs receive efficiency easily. There is a difference, as my untuned 20 meter hamstick (going thru a tuner in the shack) consistently runs about 10 dB weaker on transmit than in my receiver.
Although this is not paint a complete picture, it does tell me that it works equally well, (or equally poor) between receive and transmit. When I am able to test the antenna when its up a bit higher, I'll be able to make better comparisons.
Watch for me on the 30 meter WSPR freq. I'll be beaconing using this antenna for awhile.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
10 GHz Mountaintop Operations
Saturday, Sept. 19 (2009) was the first time I have operated from a mountaintop on 10 GHz, and I'd like to share some observations from this particular trip. Because this was the first time I have operated from this location, Blue Knob, PA EN00rg, I'd like to tell you what I learned from this trip.
Mountaintop operations such as this tests the capability of your equipment beyond what I have experienced along the lake. Things such as receive sensitivity, pointing accuracy, etc are tested. On this trip, most of the signals are much weaker then what I experienced on Lake Erie.
One thing that was noticed readily on this trip, although our most experienced operator on site, KB8VAO said that this was a fluke, but the 2 meter band conditions were far better than the conditions on 10 GHz. Typically, signals on 10 GHz are much stronger than on 2 meters. Now I have noticed this up on the lake, but I figured this was caused by the duct over the lake being much smaller, and not able to support 2 meters. However, on the mountain, stations in New England were extremely strong on 2 meters, but almost imperceptible on 10 GHz. Many stations had to be worked on CW because the signals were so light. Most of the contacts were a struggle, especially the ones over 100 km away.
Although band conditions were such that there was a 2 meter opening, and 10 GHz seemed flat in comparison, I still managed to break my old personal distance record and worked Vermont which was just under 600 KM away. It was hit and miss for awhile, signal was quite weak, and had to be done on CW. I think next trip, I'm going to bring some form of headphones. I have found that headphones will give you about a 10 dB advantage, at least for me when working extremely weak CW.
The next week or 2, I'm going to compile an equipment checklist, I forgot to bring my code key, and had to borrow one to make the contact.
I worked about a dozen stations total from the mountain, ranging from 60 KM to 600 KM.
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